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written with Catherine Price, tells its story, from its breakfast-only beginnings — a k a, how to make scones and influence hippies — through the yearly ebb and flow of tourists, cash and fresh ingredients. The recipes are interspersed with profiles of local characters and purveyors, from the goat wrestler to the couple who grow microgreens on their porch.
Like Suzanne Goin’s sleeper hit, “Sunday Suppers at Lucques,” the B.S.B. cookbook uses a seasonal approach that can be self-defeating: should you crave yam-and-sweet-potato pie in April, you’ll miss out unless you skip ahead to October. And like “Sunday Suppers,” it’s really a restaurant book: many of the recipes require a full day and a sous-chef. A lovely salad of artichoke hearts (poached with aromatics), almonds and asparagus (each roasted separately) in a dressing made from grapefruit juice (reduced to a tablespoon) took an hour-plus, but it had the complexity to show for it. I’m already scheduling time to make the pork-belly pizza with barbecue sauce and sweet corn — Step 1: Cure pork belly for five days. And the recipes for breakfast pizza and brown-butter rhubarb bars are worth the cover price (or the airfare).
